Archive for April, 2011


The happy couple driving off, photo courtesy The Telegraph

Congratulations to the happy royal couple!

Everyone loves a pageant and today’s ceremonies certainly fall into that category. Even a hardened cynic can’t help but smile at the spectacle and extravagance of the day.

Now it’s time for the task of figuring out not what they wore – there are a million other sites for that, including The Telegraph – but why they wore it.

In truth, despite it making poor copy, I think almost everyone struck an appropriate and resolutely “on message” tone.

Carole Middleton, as mother of the bride, had perhaps the hardest job. Every considerate mother must appear calm and elegant while never appearing to be trying to upstage the bride. Her last-minute choice of a Catherine Walker dress was perfect for this purpose. Perhaps it is a trifle subtextually awkward that she was one of the late Diana’s favourite designers, but it nonetheless looked decidedly in tune with her role today. It is interesting to note she was initially meant to wear a different dress; I’m curious to know what aspects of that dress she disliked.

Pippa Middleton had to be pristine, yet unintimidating, as the maid-of-honour. Her deceptively simple white gown sent out all the right messages, with more than a whiff of vestal virgin about it. It lent her authority beyond her years, and a discreet sexuality, while still being superficially innocent.

Kate herself wore a Sarah Burton/Alexander McQueen wedding dress. In keeping with that house’s sense of humour, it was elegant with an underlying trace of cheekiness in using the lace and veil to evoke an almost nunnery image. Parallels with Grace Kelly and contrasts to Diana are already being drawn, but it was entirely in keeping with her intent to appear more relaxed than some previous royal brides, while still being traditional.

The men in ceremonial uniform generally looked correct, and most of those in morning dress were fine too. But men have fewer opportunities to send subversive messages on these sort of occasions, and to get it wrong. Most of the details are so prescribed that room for expression is limited. One might wonder why William chose that particular uniform to wear, from the range to which he is entitled, but I think that’s a fairly barren field to plough.

The only minor faux pas was David Beckham wearing his honour on the wrong lapel, which speaks more about the unexpectedly elevated position in the world he finds himself sometimes, than about any deliberate intent. There was some pre-wedding controversy as to whether Prime Minister David Cameron would wear a morning suit, although of course in the end he did. While it must have been tempting to send a calculated political message of “normality” by opting for a lounge suit, it would come across as both false and prideful (akin to Gordon Brown’s avoidance of formalwear at the annual Mansion House dinners). The morning suit was more in keeping with the occasion than a lounge suit would have been, although I feel compelled to note that the trousers could have been hemmed another inch and still offered a half-break. Perhaps that is his way of ceding to an everyman look, as those who’ve attended any wedding with the groom in a rented morning suit would attest… In any event, his wife Samantha also did her bit for appearing in touch with the High Street by wearing a (relatively) inexpensive Burberry dress and no hat. She still looked impressive.

Finally, leaving the main wedding party – and subtext – aside, I think my personal favourite outfit was Zara Phillips’ lovely silver dress. If I was feeling bitchy, I’d point out that Princess Eugenie chose an unfortunate silhouette, that Sally Bercow (the Speaker’s wife) showed too much flesh, and that Justine Thornton (Ed Miliband’s fiancee) looked totally out of her depth. But it’s a day of celebration, so I’ll stop there.

Although I do feel compelled to add, in Private Eye lookalike tradition, that Princess Beatrice has probably watched Conan the Barbarian a few too many times…

Sean Connery being fitted for a bespoke suit, courtesy Eric Musgrave's book, Sharp Suits

It seems appropriate at Easter to turn one’s attention to the heavens. But those of us lacking angelic wings must turn to other garments to lend us an aura of contentment.

I’ve previously discussed how to define personal style, and the symbolism of different modes of dressing (see the list of related articles at the end of this post). This theoretical framework lets you have a clear concept of the image you wish to project to the world and how to feel comfortable with that. There then comes the tricky practical task of buying the right items.

Suppose you want to buy a navy suit. There are a myriad of options to acquire this item. You could go to the local shopping centre. Or a thrift/charity shop. Or a high-end boutique. Or you could shop those places online. Or browse eBay and other discount channels. You can get it made-to-measure (MTM) by entering your self-measured details at an online maker, or be fitted in person at a local branch. Or you could get it bespoke, with a personalised paper pattern cut for you alone, from either a cheaper Far Eastern tailor, or an established – if potentially more expensive – tailor in your own country.

With so many options, there is a tendency in our commercial world to oversimplify the choices to two axes: cost and fit, and to assume there should be a positive linear correlation between these variables. This is a very incomplete picture.

MTM and bespoke do offer potentially better fit than ready-to-wear (RTW), with bespoke offering the best fit due to the extreme degree of personalisation to your measurements. And, yes, they do tend to be more expensive than RTW, but there are also many high-end RTW makers that are more expensive than cheaper custom options. It’s crucial to remember that MTM and bespoke are processes directed towards achieving a more personalised fit, not clothes in and of themselves. The fabric, cut, and construction are all independent of the measuring process used to get a garment that fit well.

Now, the higher-end MTM and bespoke makers do often give you access to nice fabrics and better construction but you are still left with the issue of the cut. In this narrower arena you have more flexibility with bespoke than MTM, but most high-end bespoke tailors have long-standing aesthetic preferences that they’ve reached over many years of training and practice. A moment’s glance at the typical suit cut by, say, Kilgour compared to Anderson & Sheppard will tell you that. Both houses have the potential to cut you a wonderful suit, but each will look dramatically different on you even if you chose the same fabric and both fit equally well.

Choosing wrongly when going bespoke can result in as much compromise of your ideal self-image as would going to your local Marks & Spencers and buying a RTW suit. In fact, if you choose particularly badly, you might be unhappier with the bespoke. While the compromises made in bespoke are narrower than in RTW, they are in some ways more rigid for that, and this can be more of a “dealbreaker” than a more generic suit.

It is important to find a tailor or house with whom you can have a good working relationship and whose style is already fairly similar to your own. If you can do that (and have the patience required to cope with the long lead times) bespoke and MTM can be very good value despite its high initial expense, and can result in greater net happiness than RTW, because what you wear every day will harmonise with your inner feelings and thoughts.

But if you find some item of RTW that you’re genuinely happy with, then don’t be churlish to spend money on it instead. Of course, finding RTW items that you’re genuinely happy with is also a process of trial and error, which requires patience of a different sort, and a degree of willingness to spend some money. No method of acquisition is without that compromise.

Bottom Line:

  1. Keep your goal in mind; the self-image concept that you want to project outwards.
  2. Focus on the item itself, not the process (RTW/MTM/bespoke) of acquiring it.
  3. Get the item right, accepting the costs (time and money) involved, and the Sartorial Promised Land awaits.

Related Articles:

White Hair

Don’t dye it, don’t pull it out.

Let it grow all over your head.

No medicine can stop the whiteness;

the blackness won’t last the fall.

Lay your head on a quiet pillow; hear the cicadas.

Idly incline it to watch the waters flow.

The reason we can’t rise to the broader view of life

is because, White Hair, you grieve us so.

- Xin Qiji, 864-937, as translated in The Clouds Should Know Me By Now

The immortal and transcendent is lost to us because we tend to worry so much about our mortal and temporal problems. Learning to accept our mortality and its limits paradoxically frees us from those constraints. Or at least, from the emotional impact of those constraints.

I went for a drive today.

No reason. It was a sunny spring afternoon. I’d had a pleasant lunch after running some errands, read the paper and was heading home… and then found myself just going for a drive. I haven’t done that for ages. I’d forgotten how much fun it is simply driving down traffic-free backroads in the sunshine, past fields golden with rapeseed, through the little villages that are dotted across the Oxfordshire countryside, and doing nothing more taxing than listening to the radio.

I can’t say I had any great philosophical insights on my drive. If you want an discussion of the benefits of doing nothing, I’ve written about that before. But today was all about a refreshing tonic after being busy teaching yesterday.

And about whetting my appetite for the very different yet equally refreshing tonic that I’m sipping as I type.

Make sure that you find the time to enjoy doing nothing at some point today!

Not my photo; I just found it on the net. I was too busy doing nothing to take any!

Hermes Trismegistus

Hermes Trismegistus, Image via Wikipedia

  • Ignorance
  • Grief
  • Lack of Self Control
  • Desire
  • Injustice
  • Greed
  • Deceit
  • Envy
  • Treachery
  • Anger
  • Rashness
  • Malice

The syncretic wisdom of The Hermetica continues to play on my mind. The above is its list of Irrational Torments.

Escape from them comes through the acquisition of Wisdom, in an iterative virtuous circle of self-reflection. In scientific language, it would be a positive feedback loop.

This is a remarkably humanist viewpoint for such an old text, where knowledge of the eternal comes not in an instant but by being willing to contemplate self-improvement:

“[God] is by nature a musician,

who composes the harmony of the Cosmos

and transmits to each individual

the rhythm of their own music.

But I have noticed

that when an artist

deals with a noble theme

his lyre becomes mysteriously tuned”

This may sound mystical and abstruse, but the practical life lessons that can be drawn from thinking in this way are omnipresent.

As I type, the Augusta Masters is approaching its climax. Golf may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but to play it well requires an ability to rise above both temporal and spiritual distractions. Mind and body must operate in harmony and irrational torments set aside. Sports professionals call it “being in the zone”, where everything becomes simple because their focus is pure. But this purity of thought is applicable to every life task, and to life itself.

As the example of Tiger Woods – currently charging through the field – shows, it is not enough to apply these lessons to one aspect of life alone. His much-publicised personal difficulties reveal an unwillingness to apply a similar degree of thoughtfulness off the course. He has been quoted in the past as saying that he’s happiest when playing a round of golf, and this is not surprising. It is at these moments when he works the hardest to achieve balance.And yet he does not make the connection that this sense of balance is something he could also find in his personal life, if he applied the same degree of effort to it.

His challenge is the same as the rest of ours; to strive to be as wise in the rough as on the fairway.

Illustration of the devil, page 577. Legend ha...

The Devil, from the Codex Gigas, by Herman the Recluse

I found myself in a busy hotel, the typical four to five star business-friendly tower block that can be found in any city of the world. The decor was all cheap material with inappropriately expensive finish. Designed to flatter guests despite its abbreviated lifespan that permitted cost-effective frequent refurbishment to changing tastes.

I knew I was coming to the end of my stay, but had one more meeting to attend, in the hotel’s restaurant. Present was a woman in typical relaxed business dress. She told me I had to choose what happened next: would I go to Heaven or to Hell?

I turned sideways to notice the Devil in human form, wearing suit sans tie, sitting casually at the bar, sipping a cocktail and smiling at me.

I sat silently, pondering my choice.

The woman was friendly. She told me to go for a swim in the hotel’s pool before making my decision; that there was no rush. I got up in a trance, and wandered the corridors, looking for the entrance to the pool. Every time I got close, it transpired that I had taken a wrong turn. I returned to the hotel lobby and sat down to think.

The woman returned and sat beside me. I told her that the two options were irrelevant. Whichever I chose, I would still be free to make further choices, which would then let me escape either Heaven or Hell, and return to Earth. But if I didn’t make a choice, I would be trapped in the hotel forever, waiting to decide, still looking for the pool. She smiled and I woke up, feeling surprisingly rested and refreshed.

The dream is easily understood in the context of my last post concerning the Hermetica, though it is interesting that I do not feel that I am facing a choice currently. Perhaps because I already consciously agree with the answer I gave in the dream.

Certainly, I prefer my home to that hotel.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 62 other followers